tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-57078375604667799152023-11-16T07:41:38.670-08:00Sports for the Urban CanineEmily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.comBlogger39125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-64954508761722180122011-04-16T06:18:00.000-07:002011-04-16T17:33:10.315-07:00Teaching 'go to bed'To set this up right you'll need a dog bed or blanket - to make it easier on the dog, make sure that the blanket is big enough for the dog to fit fully on, a raised edge will help too - and small, tasty treats.<br /><br />Start kneeling or sitting on the floor next to the bed. Lure the dog onto the bed and into a down, if you can do this without cuing the down it will be easier to transition to the new cue. Do a few of these repetitions until the dog is doing this step with ease. Now take the food out of your hand, while keeping the same hand signal, get the dog onto the bed. If you hold your hand the same way you did when you had the treat in your hand the dog should follow with no problem. Mark and reward. Release the dog and do it again. This is a good place to stop for a break, make sure that you pick up the dog bed.<br /><br />After giving your dog a brain break, come back and start where you left off. Do a few repetitions with no food in your hand, sitting or kneeling next to the dog bed. If your dog is doing this without any problems, stand up and do it. Same hand signal, no verbal cue, mark and reward for the dog going to the bed and laying down. From here we start taking steps back away from the bed. If your dog is falling short of the bed, then you've added too much distance too quickly. Remember that everything is still off cue.<br /><br />When you can send your dog to the bed from five to six steps away you can add the cue to it. Tell your dog "go to bed" then give the hand signal. Mark and reward for the dog running over to the bed and laying down. Do a few of these repetitions and then give your dog a break, don't forget to pick up the bed!<br /><br />The next time you're ready to start playing, do a few warm up reps without the verbal cue and just the hand signal, then put the cue back on it. You're now ready to do some light proofing. When your dog is on the bed, try to lure him off of it. If he follows, tell him "oops" or "uh-oh", get him on the bed and try to lure him off again. If he doesn't follow, mark and reward. We are building duration on the bed as well and building a stronger behavior. The way the dog wins the game is by staying on the bed. Another way to proof is to drop a cookie out of reach of the dog, mark and reward for not getting up to get it. If he does try to get it, pick up the cookie and get him back on the bed.<br /><br />Build duration slowly and only practice when you can keep an eye on the dog. We do not want the dog learning that when we turn our back he can get up. Always remember to release the dog when you are done working. You won't always have to pick up the bed. When you are in the proofing stage you can leave the bed down all the time. Only reinforce the dog on the bed when you have cued him to go on it, there by reinforcing the cued behavior.<br /><br />You can branch out and teach this behavior on a small rug that you can take with you. This is a great way to get a dog to settle and hang out in new places, outdoor cafes, and even classes!!Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-31401075907311445792011-01-14T13:14:00.000-08:002011-01-14T13:19:34.945-08:00Leave It - Part 1This is a cue that comes in handy when you come across that gross dead thing on the street that your dog thinks is so very tasty. This cue is only as strong as you make it with practice and patience. This is a choice for the dog, if you make your dog do it the cue becomes weaker, but you will find that your dog will want the object more. Let’s turn the tables and set the dog up for success from the very start.<br /> To begin you will need a stock pile of good treats, made into small pea sized bits, a bland cookie, milk bones do best, and your verbal marker or clicker. Sit on the floor with your dog or in a chair if you’re opposed to getting onto the floor and place the bland cookie in your closed fist. Present it to the dog and wait. Yes, that’s right wait. Wait for the dog to back off from the fist. Do not pull your hand away, scold the dog, or bop him on the nose. It’s a choice remember. As soon as your dog backs off of your hand, mark it with your verbal marker or clicker and treat with the other hand. Begin the sequence again by presenting the bland treat in the closed fist again. Mark and reward (m/r) when the dog backs off. What about the cue? When do we add the cue? You will add the cue when your dog is doing the behavior - in this case backing off the treat - quickly. Add your cue word - we’ll use Leave It - as you present your closed fist to the dog. When the dog backs off mark and reward. Do a few more repetitions and take a break.<br /> Begin your next session with a review. Present the bland treat in the closed fist, mark and reward when your dog backs off. Now it’s time to raise the bar. Present the treat, but this time with your fist open. When the dog goes to grab the cookie close your fist. As soon as the dog backs off reopen, close if he goes for it again, reopen when he backs off and so on. The dog will finally give in and back off from the open hand because there is no way he’s going to get the cookie, this is when you mark and reward. Remember to only say your Leave It cue once when you first present your hand, the rest is a waiting game. Don’t forget it has to be the dog’s choice, so be patient.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-1385522674354110182010-11-04T19:33:00.000-07:002010-11-05T20:19:30.186-07:00Shake, High-Five, Wave<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiX_hlIOv2TsJDXgccKb8pmExr3ZHKzDsR7duwuuWfioVGWsdEyb5TH1gTP8PqR-652yHYLeTurnsoTusPye4QXL6N8M02hV7wMhc6-mDfZS_dKHlulN6FeVOfWtcWeV7wZ-AeteuVwAE/s1600/shake+edited.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 289px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiX_hlIOv2TsJDXgccKb8pmExr3ZHKzDsR7duwuuWfioVGWsdEyb5TH1gTP8PqR-652yHYLeTurnsoTusPye4QXL6N8M02hV7wMhc6-mDfZS_dKHlulN6FeVOfWtcWeV7wZ-AeteuVwAE/s320/shake+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535900105466683842" /></a><br />AKA: Paw, How do you do?<br /><br />Goal: Have the dog give you his front paw<br /><br />Some dogs are naturally "handsy" and will paw at you when frustrated, this works to our favor when teaching the dog how to offer his paw on cue. Place a high value treat into the palm of you hand, then close your fist and offer it to your dog. It helps if the dog is in a sit, but it's not required. When you dog gets frustrated enough he will paw at your hand. The moment that he hits your hand, click and open your hand to give him the treat. Do this a few more times until he has the routine. Now cue 'shake' then present your hand, click, open and reward. Do this a few more times and then remove the treat from you hand, rewarding with the other hand or going into you pocket to get the treat with the hand he just hit. By saying the cue first, then presenting your hand, you will be able to transfer to a flat hand sooner.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh76JwRLIcl3xR4wCqQeNJXLh7gPA_gsB5XOfkQHhSsacxGnZ70IwI6yieH2h0ttlvp2hKFfNYcKDXlXXx6vjLlZ9xek2EUaCoxbm_MyYwi6jFeWZddC1mOII2ggvO_W-qsv91dwXIkiBI/s1600/high-five+edited.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 278px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh76JwRLIcl3xR4wCqQeNJXLh7gPA_gsB5XOfkQHhSsacxGnZ70IwI6yieH2h0ttlvp2hKFfNYcKDXlXXx6vjLlZ9xek2EUaCoxbm_MyYwi6jFeWZddC1mOII2ggvO_W-qsv91dwXIkiBI/s320/high-five+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535903657782415154" /></a><br />Goal: Have the dog hit your hand with his paw up high<br /><br />Once you have 'shake' on cue simply switch your hand to the high-five position and using the new cue, old cue technique, ask your dog to 'high-five' followed by 'shake'. Do this for a few repetitions, then just ask for a high-five without the shake cue and see if he does it. If he does then you don't need to continue to pair the cues together.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwR4DiUUcFQ50QM8mLsUFjwKHn6s1IiyBarHXSjJDF79M82B3IRtKIKvN0q-J73bnJKKtAh0TcJWHPHMb6NYA5cm3SMGz6zDpi1jKp15het3zDAeAPN-hjkZBLCR8bxvAdVHJINxieOsI/s1600/wave+edited.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwR4DiUUcFQ50QM8mLsUFjwKHn6s1IiyBarHXSjJDF79M82B3IRtKIKvN0q-J73bnJKKtAh0TcJWHPHMb6NYA5cm3SMGz6zDpi1jKp15het3zDAeAPN-hjkZBLCR8bxvAdVHJINxieOsI/s320/wave+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5536270887368648082" /></a><br />Goal: Have your dog wave his paw at you<br /><br />Wave is a 'high-five' with your hand out of reach. Again here we are going to use the new cue, old cue technique. With your hand slightly out of reach cue your dog to 'wave' followed quickly by 'high-five'. Don't be surprised if your dog tries to stretch to meet your hand. If your dog jumps up to meet your hand, then your hand is too high or if he gives up after a few attempts, move your hand closer to make it easier. You may slowly increase the height and distance away from the dog when you no longer need to cue 'high-five' when asking for 'wave'. If you want your dog to be able to do wave on a verbal only add a beat pause between the verbal and the hand signal.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-91016224513360135162010-10-20T19:59:00.000-07:002010-10-20T20:10:41.211-07:00Under/Peek<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZjNIcemh_dtDa_xa0DpzSYqST6D5aZtU0592q59yB3yEg-V0DtiurkLr-iTXuFqIgTeggpb3ClD0-nQBf2UP_cme_cdz0rTFt2quGD499NW_CxK1FgnV0LO5xl4VP38lW3sMsUfPajuA/s1600/dude+under2+edited.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZjNIcemh_dtDa_xa0DpzSYqST6D5aZtU0592q59yB3yEg-V0DtiurkLr-iTXuFqIgTeggpb3ClD0-nQBf2UP_cme_cdz0rTFt2quGD499NW_CxK1FgnV0LO5xl4VP38lW3sMsUfPajuA/s320/dude+under2+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5530331400197639330" /></a><br /><br />Goal: Get the dog to stand between your legs and remain there. The next step to this is moving forward and backward while the dog maintains position.<br /><br />Stand with your legs shoulder width apart and with a treat lure your dog's head behind your leg and through. Try using two hands, use one to lure the dog behind you and the other to get him through your legs. When his head is between your legs, hold your hands at your stomach, making sure to reinforce periodically.<br /><br />To add movement keep your hands at your stomach and take one step forward or backward. Praise and treat the dog for staying between your legs. If he comes out before being released mark with an 'oops!' or 'uh-oh' and lure him back. <br /><br />You can add changes in position to make if harder still.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-54172540978504278262010-10-20T19:46:00.000-07:002010-10-20T19:59:00.652-07:00Spin and TwirlGoal: Get your dog to make a full circle to the right and the left<br /><br />Like many tricks the dog starts in front of you. With a treat lure the dog's head toward his tail. Be ready to break it down if he bails off the lure. Keep luring until the dog makes a complete circle either to the left or the right. Now try it to the other side.<br /><br />Each dog has a hard side and an easy side. Put a different name to a turn to the left and a turn to the right to be clear to the dog. You can starting putting a name on it when the dog is consistently doing the turns each way.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhHH26n0YJWMX_Uyo0sU2sRvgudx7WXGTcJ6dTHUUZfwg0kxb2stzW2BnOTPPunarjWeJBxa9DrdHQYymc7sHJdxMWZ-K8QZSdM-0z_yIAmp36YOgPXsPxRNoX_7S7x6rR4xq5-SdumNI/s1600/twirl+edited.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 269px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhHH26n0YJWMX_Uyo0sU2sRvgudx7WXGTcJ6dTHUUZfwg0kxb2stzW2BnOTPPunarjWeJBxa9DrdHQYymc7sHJdxMWZ-K8QZSdM-0z_yIAmp36YOgPXsPxRNoX_7S7x6rR4xq5-SdumNI/s320/twirl+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5530327833237341938" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjerjLSC1EtaDkW7U83G3q3i2U9HRtnV3kKVoxndhrUPvucKAd14nYg1LvHtGsX7VeQDz1R-6Ru9oizfHaRqyb83vcwKV9_a-E2MaDBcmhUPonNigb3NPuinBdkHRBdly3XgllJ4FOFuEo/s1600/spin+edited.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 305px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjerjLSC1EtaDkW7U83G3q3i2U9HRtnV3kKVoxndhrUPvucKAd14nYg1LvHtGsX7VeQDz1R-6Ru9oizfHaRqyb83vcwKV9_a-E2MaDBcmhUPonNigb3NPuinBdkHRBdly3XgllJ4FOFuEo/s320/spin+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5530327709371862930" /></a>Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-86901263466806538982010-10-20T19:38:00.001-07:002010-10-20T19:45:06.071-07:00Place!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNH6Dlpxq7GYeGuB7OXX1GvpndHmMkMbitistpd0zUDy0VjYyCX8Pl4LCGnchgWkGlPvIUhl2QuYfiSmV0pUgGS6UfFUXaMla4m1uPEt15EnUwRPHtdqUpY1YlicUZkSBy_5kMHGVkjw/s1600/place+edited.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 235px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNH6Dlpxq7GYeGuB7OXX1GvpndHmMkMbitistpd0zUDy0VjYyCX8Pl4LCGnchgWkGlPvIUhl2QuYfiSmV0pUgGS6UfFUXaMla4m1uPEt15EnUwRPHtdqUpY1YlicUZkSBy_5kMHGVkjw/s320/place+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5530323292580207010" /></a><br />Goal: Get you do to jump up onto an object and stay until released<br /><br />This one is easy as long as you start with objects that are big enough for the dog and low enough to easily get on. When you have found an object that meets this criteria encourage your dog to jump up onto it. Reward the dog, step back a step or two, then return and reward. If your dog jumps down with out being released, simply get him back onto it. This is the only correction the dog will receive. When the dog realizes that you will keep putting him back up there and will only be rewarded for staying there, he will try to jump off less and less.<br /><br />You can slowly increase the height of the object that you ask your dog to jump on and decrease the size of the landing zone. This is a huge trust behavior and requires a lot of confidence in the dog. Get creative with the objects you ask your dog to jump up on! They make great photo opportunities.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-4307206373471939632010-10-20T08:14:00.000-07:002010-10-20T08:45:37.527-07:00Balance the Bone<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ9s7_FvT5fn7E7KejTkMPQbwVsbQsKPtotfs40e2HeKc6YLFlF-gIIpqJ_WaVG0Bp7lhj6KIcStkQH58_4klrvX9Oii1nsuzIHzkho_Pxxj-m6MOGwDBOHQATVIip8DsMg1TTLgo18no/s1600/bone+balance+edited.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 233px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ9s7_FvT5fn7E7KejTkMPQbwVsbQsKPtotfs40e2HeKc6YLFlF-gIIpqJ_WaVG0Bp7lhj6KIcStkQH58_4klrvX9Oii1nsuzIHzkho_Pxxj-m6MOGwDBOHQATVIip8DsMg1TTLgo18no/s320/bone+balance+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5530153315939614786" /></a><br />Goal: To balance a bone at the end of your dog's nose.<br /><br />You'll need an evenly balanced treat for this trick. Start with your first two fingers under the dog's collar right under his chin, your thumb and last two fingers on either side of his muzzle. Lightly hold his muzzle still. If your dog fights this position, pause here and feed him until he's comfortable with you holding him like this.<br /><br />Once your dog in comfortable in this position you may begin to place the bone on his nose. Only ask him to hold it for a short time before releasing your grip on his muzzle so he can get the treat. As your dog begins to understand that holding still is what you want you may slowly release your grip on his muzzle and still have him stay with the bone on his snout.<br /><br />When you tell him to get the bone use his release word or 'get it'. You may tell your dog to 'stay' while holding the bone. Keep building time and if you want to be a super rockstar you can add the number of bones your dog holds on his nose.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-82326672805142376862010-10-19T18:59:00.000-07:002010-10-19T19:17:33.074-07:00Bang! and Rollover<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZqyD_1R_RoEtD9KeFRaim4Lf-tGUstfjGuM-pCbptNMXGIYPue4TTxqUY1_9texbHKX2ahZvrOvz8qsTGmZ5dGp0jkhqmcaMVtBEdcu9seu0p0rkb-FwSEL7e2jZQAxBD7BhhxUUv6b0/s1600/dude+bang+edited.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZqyD_1R_RoEtD9KeFRaim4Lf-tGUstfjGuM-pCbptNMXGIYPue4TTxqUY1_9texbHKX2ahZvrOvz8qsTGmZ5dGp0jkhqmcaMVtBEdcu9seu0p0rkb-FwSEL7e2jZQAxBD7BhhxUUv6b0/s320/dude+bang+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529945415072933170" /></a><br />Goal: To have your dog drop his side when "shot"<br /><br />If your dog is sensitive about hard surfaces begin this one on something soft. With the dog in a down, take a treat from the dog's nose and <span style="font-style:italic;">slowly</span> turn hi head back toward his shoulder. Continue to draw this line back toward his shoulder blade. At this point you should see the dog begin to lean back and start to go onto his side. Keep going until his head is on the ground. This is the 'Bang!' position. Continue to feed to maintain the position, then release.<br /><br />*Note: Most dogs will favor one side over the other. Go with the dog's natural side.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinm_syfKU_CW1zP1YexiOq7ei7NYwLfJSHvf2pSvrOVAO9tYTg7qC7MvDWLiCBmnXBMyXvfuOD5l0Z4Zb0Lbc3jK0Wv3Yif8XWYbiVUQF-Ye__DBs-mdZKWqiuK3AoKHgO5x-RhyxSit0/s1600/rollover+edited.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinm_syfKU_CW1zP1YexiOq7ei7NYwLfJSHvf2pSvrOVAO9tYTg7qC7MvDWLiCBmnXBMyXvfuOD5l0Z4Zb0Lbc3jK0Wv3Yif8XWYbiVUQF-Ye__DBs-mdZKWqiuK3AoKHgO5x-RhyxSit0/s320/rollover+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529946353021380626" /></a><br />Goal: To have your dog completely roll over and end up back in the position he started<br /><br />From the 'Bang!' position continue to lure toward the shoulder. The head and body should follow until the dog is on his other side.<br /><br />If at anytime the dog pops up, simply begin again. Break it down into small steps if need be.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-83435396857683901182010-10-19T18:49:00.000-07:002010-10-19T18:58:58.974-07:00Stick 'em Up<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy0DwEDD0nFQbtu8ggaWZ2lRguWsrIuLz-GmDvAsdyQWVqK6DMNyKmyIYuTaignxvGSD6g13WaI3bxSpT9EpzWtRG9uB5uRYVcAR-EDe20KPXhCQiTAvWAH9vl-xVhTCjKbTL96FAdFBA/s1600/dude+beg+edited"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy0DwEDD0nFQbtu8ggaWZ2lRguWsrIuLz-GmDvAsdyQWVqK6DMNyKmyIYuTaignxvGSD6g13WaI3bxSpT9EpzWtRG9uB5uRYVcAR-EDe20KPXhCQiTAvWAH9vl-xVhTCjKbTL96FAdFBA/s320/dude+beg+edited" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529941809064951330" /></a><br />AKA: Sit Pretty, Beg<br /><br />Goal: Get your dog to sit up on his hind legs<br /><br />Make sure your dog is on a non-slip surface to start. Cue dog to sit and with a treat lure straight up and slightly back. Mark and reward when the front feet come off the ground. You may help your dog balance by holding onto his collar or having you dog sit with his back against a wall. Slowly build up duration and height that the front feet come up off the floor.<br /><br />When you can reliably lure the behavior, add the verbal cue to it. Then fade the food lure.<br /><br />For fun try asking for a wave while your dog is sitting up or pairing this with a Spread 'em!Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-78257953897447959672010-09-30T21:14:00.000-07:002010-09-30T21:17:19.662-07:00Fun Way to Get Into the CarKayla's interpretation of loading up into the car. Only a chocolate, only a chocolate!<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzSdeaDtoe5DZS5Q8x2VB5GBOCntHKy_AouD2rPTkSNmEpuZmTW2pU2PeYfxsTol19PHC8CH4X4A0vR_UwEMg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br />Keep training and keep it fun!!Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-26373484906257621912010-09-30T20:36:00.003-07:002010-10-19T19:24:23.312-07:00Wave!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO5AufrGR1QnBvhyphenhyphenMZflJd5RBeSw3nHU9d3xKUpWOyDC22bRbILqjfi4C2jhveeqOvurjxkkcmlXlFqKBkYfFwKEmmdWFLlKH5DdpQveEWBBf5O_zN6kVLOMU0bgxXGZJMxhofWi3olWM/s1600/wave+edited.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO5AufrGR1QnBvhyphenhyphenMZflJd5RBeSw3nHU9d3xKUpWOyDC22bRbILqjfi4C2jhveeqOvurjxkkcmlXlFqKBkYfFwKEmmdWFLlKH5DdpQveEWBBf5O_zN6kVLOMU0bgxXGZJMxhofWi3olWM/s320/wave+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529948328122653266" /></a><br />Goal: have your dog wave his/her paw at you <br /><br />This is a variation on the high five. If your dog has a solid high five you can place your hand up as if to ask for a high five, but keep your hand just out of reach. If your dog won't offer the behavior on hand cue alone you may do what's called 'new cue, old cue'. Raise your hand and cue 'wave' then 'high five' or whatever else your high five word is. Pretty soon your dog will be offering the behavior on the cue 'wave' and you can drop the old cue. <br /><br />As you progress you can move your hand higher and higher, eventually ending in a standing position and perhaps even adding distance. If the wave begins to go limp, just got back to some close reps and remember to really reward those rockin' waves with special stuff.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-23257870432656541992010-09-30T20:36:00.001-07:002010-10-19T19:26:44.023-07:00Weave Through the Legs<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB0S_-kye0BaolvcSi70xv129o1PC-AnM9SSNkMvuWefozp3q_QQnVIu5Rh5vUHP2mu2UZSrdsuZJhG5qZCog7aiYIfNcosVPHSRxem4Y62rAgDfXWeBH2rDldyHlPMsDKmj4lVe4j5Wk/s1600/dude+weave+edited.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB0S_-kye0BaolvcSi70xv129o1PC-AnM9SSNkMvuWefozp3q_QQnVIu5Rh5vUHP2mu2UZSrdsuZJhG5qZCog7aiYIfNcosVPHSRxem4Y62rAgDfXWeBH2rDldyHlPMsDKmj4lVe4j5Wk/s320/dude+weave+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529948733210527138" /></a><br />Goal: have the dog weave through your legs as you walk forward <br /><br />You'll want to use your verbal marker for this one. Having treats in both hands and your dog in front of you, step forward the right leg. With your right hand on the backside of your leg lure your dog's head through your leg. If you've done it right your dog should be on your right side facing the same direction as you. Now repeat with the left leg. Continue repeating this pattern until you run out of space or room. <br /><br />When your dog is not hesitating to go through your legs you may add you cue and asking for two or three passes before rewarding.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLXdWxB2vgWEZGUUpFZh-AVGo4duTkKNR3CoiT5piqjw7vo2JDgBrxF1itqHWnoIzCq-XCkh88J54c92hUzv9MoWVIAAE9o1L4gmmpCVvDa3olpbf5FB1WezlGTDRFjZS0cN99LzCnUsk/s1600/kay+weave+edited.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLXdWxB2vgWEZGUUpFZh-AVGo4duTkKNR3CoiT5piqjw7vo2JDgBrxF1itqHWnoIzCq-XCkh88J54c92hUzv9MoWVIAAE9o1L4gmmpCVvDa3olpbf5FB1WezlGTDRFjZS0cN99LzCnUsk/s320/kay+weave+edited.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529948895397724946" /></a>Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-5093465020858059992010-09-30T20:35:00.000-07:002010-09-30T20:36:01.601-07:00Back Up!Goal: get your dog to walk backwards <br /><br />Start with a handful of small treats. They should be small enough so that you can rapid fire feed them. Have your dog in a stand in front of you, put both of your hands together down at your dog's nose level between your legs. Slowly begin to walk into your dog and click and treat (c/t) the moment your dog takes a step back. You should be watching the back feet and clicking for thoses feet moving. As your dog gets better at it you can chain two or three steps together before clicking. <br /><br />In the mean time, think about the cue and hand signal you want to use. When your dog is beginning to step backwards when you step into them you can fade the food lure and add your word. Keeping your hands in that low position will help the dog as well, just don't have any food in them. Only ask for three or four steps before clicking. As your dog gets faster and faster you can ask for more steps and move your hands to where you want them to end up. <br /><br />If your dogs begins to fade to one side, step back to recenter and begin again, just ask for fewer steps. Try to always feed in a stand to prevent the falling into a sit.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-47290451538144089722010-08-16T21:05:00.001-07:002010-08-16T21:05:43.813-07:00Flat workThere are three main turns in this game we call Agility, the front cross, the rear cross, and the post turn. When teaching a new dog these fundamental skills it's best to do so without equipment, or on the flat (ground that is). Let's start with the post turn because that's the one that everyone already knows, you just don't realize it yet.<br /><br />A post turn is a turn 180 deg in the opposite direction. See told you! You do already know it! Everybody learns this neat trick when teaching a dog how to walk nicely on lead. The only change we are going to add is that you practice this with your dog on the left and on the right. I tend to tell my dog "This way!" before turning. It gives the dog a nice little heads up that you're turning and meshes in nicely when out for a nice stroll. I don't use the verbal cue when on the course.<br /><br />The first of our "walk the line" duo is the front cross. It happens to be the easier of the two. This drill requires that you have food in both hands. One keeps the dog with you, while the other turns the dog. Find a nice long line on the floor to walk along, unless you swear you walk straight, then you can skip it. Start with the dog on the left side, in a loose heel position, and start walking forward - the food in your left hand should keep the dog with you. When you're ready to turn, have your right hand meet your left hand and lure the dog to turn into you, all the while you are turning into the dog. If you've done it correctly your dog should be on your right side focused on the treats in your right hand. The line on the floor is to keep you turning in position, it serves no purpose for the dog. Now repeat to switch the dog to the left side of you. There is so real cue or name for this behavior, but if you feel you need to call it something, call it "switch".<br /><br />The second of our "walk the line" duo is the rear cross. What makes this one hard is that we have to get the dog to turn away from us as we turn into them. If you happen to notice, the handler turns the same way each times, it's only the dog that changes which way he turns. Set up with food in both hands, dog on the left. Begin walking forward, when you are ready to turn have the right hand meet the left dog and direct his nose away from you and you turn toward the dog. Your dog should now be on your right and you should be setting up to repeat. I tend to call this "flip" because the dog flips out away from you. If your dog does not want to turn, simply break it down into steps. Reward for a head turn, then a neck and one paw, then two, and so on until you have the complete behavior. Make sure to work your dog's hard side more than the easy side, but at the very minimum both side equally.<br /><br />If at any point you want to make things harder and achieve rock star level, try mixing up which turn you do, then add some speed, and finally some distance. Have fun and happy training!Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-75043891043792950832010-07-29T20:50:00.000-07:002010-07-29T21:02:34.826-07:00Ready! Steady! Go!The ready game is our key to a great start line. Not only this, but it helps to teach deceleration and collection cues as well. All you'll need to play this is a smile and a pocket full of cookies.<br /><br />The dog can start on your left or your right, in a sit, down, or stand. I start with my dog on my left, usually in a sit. When your dog is set, step off with your right foot and take a few steps. You'll want to leave your shoulders open and at an angle towards your dog. This way you can maintain eye contact, while letting your dog know which side to run too. When you ready to unleash the beast, release him with his word and run a few steps forward. Just as he's about to catch up to you stop and reward right down the seam of your pants. Don't fret if he over runs you a little bit, just lure him back to your side and reward. If you want to tighten up the stops, just do it next to the wall for a few reps.<br /><br />To make this exercise harder increase the distance that you lead out or add a slight curve to your run and don't forget to practice on both sides!!!Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-45499822669078027612010-05-06T21:03:00.000-07:002010-05-06T21:18:10.919-07:00Understanding Place<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNFcbBpA1irDyllmfjM-xkStG5m5jrsZZK2ITV3gD9UVxsU5DxmTYHQATF9rpZJzJesv8zNwJZGtq2tFdPDGkE9tNvtbruu4kHYFRp_n5S2P099vzuiyoKSZsx_LKJDToDx_fdjPryPo/s1600/17329670900_ORIG.jpeg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNFcbBpA1irDyllmfjM-xkStG5m5jrsZZK2ITV3gD9UVxsU5DxmTYHQATF9rpZJzJesv8zNwJZGtq2tFdPDGkE9tNvtbruu4kHYFRp_n5S2P099vzuiyoKSZsx_LKJDToDx_fdjPryPo/s320/17329670900_ORIG.jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5468377555770110818" /></a><br />I will venture to say that the place behvaior is one of the most under used behaviors out there. You'll see traditional leash and collar trainers use this behavior all the time, but the positive folks...not so much. I jsut don't get why!<br /><br />Let's think about what we could accomplish by teaching our dog to sit or lie down on a spot for a given amount of time...no more door rushing, door bolting, jumping up on guests as the enter, just to name a few. Are you starting to see the potential now??? Some dogs need help with their off button and this is one way to do it.<br /><br />I love having the chocolate in the kitchen with me, but man o man does she pick the worst places to lie down! She's now got her designated place to be and I don't have to worry about her trying to quickly snatched up the things that I drop - many times they are things that I don't want her to have. No need to try to spit out a leave it before she hoovers that piece of onion. Yep, you guessed it! Place is a don't get off that spot no matter what kinds cue (if you've taught it right).<br /><br />I've had a lot of fun with my place cue. I will ahve Kay jump up on just about anything that will support her body weight. It's made some great photos for sure! It's also an easy way to teach a stay - you can be very black and white. Helped when Kay was laying down on the long sit for Open Obedience! We have our CDX to prove it!<br /><br />So next time you hear me talk about the place behavior in class let your mind wander about what nasty little habits this simple like cue can fix...think outside the box. There are tons of basic agility behaviors we use in our day to day life the we tend to overlook.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-66120271828491231252009-12-28T23:20:00.000-08:002009-12-28T23:21:27.025-08:00Gotcha!Being able to grab your dog’s collar is one of the most important handling skills your dog should possess. When it comes to emergency situations the first thing that people go for is the collar. If your dog is not used to being grabbed this could turn into a very charged situation, even ending in a bite.<br><br /> It is best to start this skill young and don’t just focus on the collar. Make sure that you can put pressure on the ears, paws, tail and body. All over body handling is key to child proofing a dog. Begin softly and do not hang on for any long period of time. Hang on just long enough to deliver the reward and let go. Duration comes later.<br><br /> Let’s set this up, shall we. Stock up on small bits of kibble or treats. Touch or gently grab the dog’s collar. Say “gotcha!” and food reward. Let go. If you have a dog that does not like being touched or immediately jumps back when you go to grab you’ll have to go much slower. Try one of two things. Present the treat first in a closed fist. As the dog is focused on the treat slowly reach in to touch the collar. Open your hand the same time you touch the collar, letting the dog eat the treat. The second way is to put a lead on the dog. Grab the lead at the end, saying “gotcha!” and rewarding. As the dog becomes comfortable, slowing work your way up the lead. This is a big trust game. That means no collar punishment - including but not limited to collar shakes, collar pops, or general rough collar treatment. This is especially true if you have a dog that is at all skittish or shy of handling.<br><br /> If you have a bouncy, outgoing dog that doesn’t mind the light stuff then begin to get sloppier in the grab or quicker in the grab. By sloppy I mean lightly grabbing some of the scruff with the collar or the fur around the collar if it’s a coated dog. Do not make the dog squeak in pain. Make sure to do this throughout the day and at random times. Don’t forget to reward!!!<br><br /> When it comes to the body parts start slow and soft, almost like a massage. If at any time the dog lets you know that you’re going to fast or handling too hard back up a step. When applying pressure, do it within reason. Do not yank on the ears or tail. Place only enough pressure to restrain, not hurt. It’s good for dogs to get used to rough handling, but be sure to not cross the line.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-44497601043832429072009-12-25T00:06:00.000-08:002009-12-25T00:11:16.109-08:00A lesson learnedI learned a valuable lesson tonight about judging someone by the equipment they use with their dog. My cousin made a comment about the remote collar on Bailey and I was floored. I would never use a piece of equipment on my dog that would cause serious harm, pain, or otherwise damage our relationship. So before you think about judging someone based on their training collar choice, think twice. You don't know how or why they are using it.<br /><br /><br />*** If you have further questions about my use of the remote collar in my training, please feel free to ask. ***Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-58639287149901398582009-11-09T23:23:00.000-08:002009-11-09T23:30:50.047-08:00Videos<object width="176" height="144" ><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://www.facebook.com/v/609110051739" /><embed src="http://www.facebook.com/v/609110051739" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="176" height="144"></embed></object><br /><br />Kayla's crate trick<br /><br /><object width="352" height="288" ><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://www.facebook.com/v/568405444099" /><embed src="http://www.facebook.com/v/568405444099" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="352" height="288"></embed></object><br /><br />Dude learning the Drop on Recall (this is a long one and was left with little editing)<br /><br />Videos of past agility runs with Bailey and Kayla are still to come.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-89766628129673454342009-10-08T19:21:00.000-07:002010-07-30T22:38:37.413-07:00Follow Me!<span style="font-weight:bold;">A must have for control off leash!</span><br><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">What you Need:</span><br /> med -> high level treats<br /> 20-50 ft long line unless in a fenced area<br /> second or "ghost" handler if possible<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Goal</span><br /> To have the dog follow the handler and ignore the environment<br /><br />*Note* The second handler is there to make sure that the dog remains safe, to tell the handler when to hide and when to reappear.<br /><br />Begin with your pup by your side - position (sit, down, stand) is not important, the pup should be still. It is best if you wait for the pup to offer eye contact, but you may cue it. This provides the connection between you and your pup. Now you're ready to get going. Pick a point in front of you, cue your pup to "let's go" and begin walking. Here's the hard part! Don't beg, look at, or otherwise cue your pup. You may praise and treat him if he's by your side. Trust me you'll "feel" him next to you. Is he still with you? Yes! Great! Mark, reward, and change direction. Do this often to try to lose your pup.<br /><br />Did you lose him? He not following you? Don't fret! Keep walking, fight the urge to beg, and find a place to hide. Your ghost handler will make sure puppy is safe. You may keep your head in sight, just keep quiet. Let your pup figure out that he lost you. Let him fret a bit. Did he finally notice you ditched him? Is he searching? Good! Now you may step out and call him. Praise that good puppy! He'd better keep an eye on you, you may just leave him! Sneaky human!<br /><br />Begin the exercise again. As your dog becomes proficient you can make it harder by adding toys or strangers or other dogs.<br /><br />*If you add dogs make sure the distraction dog does not reciprocate advances to play. This dog is for distraction only. Same goes for the humans.*<br /><br />Take this show on road! The more places you practice the better.<br /><br />This is a variation of a Suzanne Clothier leadership exercise game.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-63438223441963777312009-10-05T13:33:00.000-07:002010-07-30T22:40:30.821-07:00Upholding your end of the dealWhen we train our dogs it's a partnership. You do the teaching and they do the learning, or vise versa. We are the good dog owners and go to class each week, practice our homework in the house when we have time, and magically expect our dogs to be letter perfect in the outside world. This is the biggest complaint I receive as an instructor, their dog won't listen in public. To which I usually respond have you practiced in public? We all know the answer to that 90% of the time is no. I was reminded of this very same thing this weekend. <br /><br />Kayla and I have been trying for our CDX (Open Obedience title) for a better part of a year now. We finally got our title yesterday by the grace of God. I went into the ring expecting a mid 190 score, but walked out with 189. Needless to say a few things fell apart and other bits looked down right sloppy - so not our style. As I was driving home I began to think over why we showed like we did and realized I had not upheld my end of the deal. I had not been putting my time into training, nor had I put the routine together in about a month. I should be so lucky to have a dog that saved <span style="font-style:italic;">my</span> ass. The one thing that looked good was the long sit - now we have been practicing that!! The voice of my instructor rings in my head - you get what you train for! Ain't that the truth!!!<br /><br />The moral of this story: before you blame the dog, ask yourself if you've put in the work!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNyvSuTCLZU-s0ulOV3BklPC99bD_1sJGzPep2CRgSV7lKx2j9Mui1l3Z1a6uI4iu2s7YOwi-osoqwKemTjg4seiOZAYQy65FrRUnY0mFMnda5e8New754Yn7czaXUcNnU8gIaH4OBV9g/s1600-h/338535_1254706666.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 225px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNyvSuTCLZU-s0ulOV3BklPC99bD_1sJGzPep2CRgSV7lKx2j9Mui1l3Z1a6uI4iu2s7YOwi-osoqwKemTjg4seiOZAYQy65FrRUnY0mFMnda5e8New754Yn7czaXUcNnU8gIaH4OBV9g/s320/338535_1254706666.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389221281009821826" /></a> <span style="font-weight:bold;">ARCHX UCD Hi-Jinks Second Chance CL1 CL2-F CL2-S NA CD-H CDX RE RL1X RL2X RL3 CGC TDI</span>Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-35619196857003341872009-09-16T22:03:00.000-07:002009-09-16T22:15:20.263-07:00When it's not funI got to start a new Charm class tonight - a class for not so nice dogs - and looking at these owners brought me back to when I was going through this with my own dog. Sand is a not so nice dog. I was the hated person in the neighborhood. Seemingly the only person in the world with an aggressive Lab. I turned to techniques that killed my relationship. My dog was a puddle at my feet and I was heartbroken. After this I committed myself to turning our training and relationship around. I got to see this tonight in one student. I got to see someone take the first step toward crossing over from force and pain. Training should be fun for both parties. Training should open doors to a fulling relationship. Next time you feel like resorting to force, look into your dog's eyes.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Yfk4rR9lB8alvfq2B_tERrG_98eZMQq8WqN9MmK1YM3HI_9Dqnkrh9RhUoU59bboKCHHDlfP3gY1RnIk2yZFxE6HqyWNYmwm-0eC5ZV-FYyZcYX7EN9dwh0XRss7w3O0oeUvOtaSI5w/s1600-h/IMG_1788.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Yfk4rR9lB8alvfq2B_tERrG_98eZMQq8WqN9MmK1YM3HI_9Dqnkrh9RhUoU59bboKCHHDlfP3gY1RnIk2yZFxE6HqyWNYmwm-0eC5ZV-FYyZcYX7EN9dwh0XRss7w3O0oeUvOtaSI5w/s320/IMG_1788.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382300516635626930" /></a>Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-87970174985087064852009-09-03T20:06:00.000-07:002009-09-03T20:14:34.736-07:00Tricks for dogsTrick training may seem a bit dumb and insignificant, but in fact they can be vital to developing a well rounded dog. Tricks promote problem solving for both dog and handler. You are also broadening your dog's vocabulary. When thinking of tricks to teach, start easy and pick something that your dog does naturally. For example if your dog likes to paw at things, begin with High 5, Wave, or Shake. Some tricks build naturally build on each other, such as a retrieve can be turned into putting toys away or closing a door. Here's an example of Kayla showing off her hold. <br><br><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfA0diUlxkdyHs6zZHYBn-U5dvKcwlhgtcB1PIxsQRho9OSVgDYbxRBHlmk0MRzFkKUHPxCyUSsajTic1fbBx_kpyhlUvbBgO-JnkJaUO9ECODHRDw2AtC60aBdiyU0bc6VdZ6x3-RYQI/s1600-h/free+basset.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfA0diUlxkdyHs6zZHYBn-U5dvKcwlhgtcB1PIxsQRho9OSVgDYbxRBHlmk0MRzFkKUHPxCyUSsajTic1fbBx_kpyhlUvbBgO-JnkJaUO9ECODHRDw2AtC60aBdiyU0bc6VdZ6x3-RYQI/s320/free+basset.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377445222713805250" /></a><br /><br /><br><br> What can your dog do?Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-16138001103823392362009-08-15T13:40:00.000-07:002010-02-09T12:40:47.657-08:00They are up!After months of waiting I have converted and posted my agility videos. The runs were taped in Indiana at a fun run. Enjoy!!<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://vimeo.com/7574298">Bailey Jumpers</a><br /><br /><br />You can also find Kayla's jumpers run up there as well!Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5707837560466779915.post-58569000118905517502009-07-21T15:51:00.000-07:002009-07-21T16:00:01.517-07:00Kay's trip to the chiroWell, those who know me know I take my dogs to the chiropractic vet at least once a year to get a tune up. This month was Dude's follow up and Kayla's turn. The vet found reduced flexion in her left elbow and some thickening. While it won't halt her from playing agility, it will put a kink in it. She's slim, active and going to be starting joint supplements very soon which will help. My little squirrel's funky foot out of whack! We'll have to reduce her training times per week and sorry guys, limit her trips to class as a demo pup.<br /><br />This does explain why she is not wanting to stay in the weave poles at speed and cannot turn as tightly. I still love her! It just might take us longer to get that MACH.Emily Stoddard, CPDT-KAhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00677459661833414584noreply@blogger.com0